The Bugaboos : Rock Climbing
     
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The Bug's. Granite so imaculate, so clean, so big. Have a peek into what lies ahead.

WWW.bugaboorock.8m.com for more pics and story's


I have visited the bugaboos four times, and a total of nine days. I have never been skunked on a day of climbing. I have always waited until that high-pressure system blown in, and the skis clear up, the temperature rises and then I go. The Bugaboos have their own little weather pattern sometimes. The views from the summits are astounding.


Snowpatch Spire 3063m: Early morning sun
The only route that I have climbed on this beautiful Mountain is the NE corner. The route climbs far left of face, the route starts below the snow patch, and climbs easy 5th class slabs to the left of the snow patch. The final part works back right above the snow and up sustained rock to the top.

Bugaboo Spire 3176m
The left skyline of Bugaboo Spire is the classic route known as, Kain Route 5.6, and the classic pitch on the gendarme. My wife Josee and I climbed this route on one of those trips to the Bugs. The right skyline is the other classic, known in the 50 classic climbs, The NE Ridge of Bugaboo Sp. 5.7/8. I also managed a successful accent with a good friend of mine, Michel Dufresne.

The great Howser Spire Massif 3398 m
This is my goal for the following year. I want to climb all three summits on the Massif. The left tower is known as South Howser Tower, and far right known as, North Howser Tower. The SHT has the ultimate classic, Beckey/Chouinard Route 5.9/10a. This is my next climb on my tic list for this area.

Kelly Leading P5 5.8, on the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire
Michel D. and I got up early that morning. The hut floor was slightly cold, creaked as we move slowly across it, trying not to wake anyone. We had a fast breakfast, and bolted for the door.

Halfway across the glacier we stop for a picture. The start of the climb is wild. Big flakes and corners. Cool traverses and down climbing and steep in cut corners. The weather was keeping nice as we happily climbed this beautiful route.

The Jam crack, 5.8 variations. The wildest pitch on the climb. Exposed, solid, grippe, fun heart pumping adrenaline climbing. The rest of the climb becomes 5.3 chimney/slab. Traverse the mountain and descend the Kain route.

Kelly sitting on the ridge of the Kain Route with the astounding Gendarme
The traverse was proving to be trickier than we anticipated. There was more down climbing on steep and exposed terrain. Thousands of feet of free falling down either side of this marvelous peak. The north summit, than the south summit.

The first real rap of the South summit of Bugaboo Spire is down to the Gendarme. So there I sat waiting for Michel to take his picture, and rap. The next part proved to be another fun section. The Gendarme Rap, down the left side, into a ledge slot, climbs up to a belay station on the other side of the ridge.

A few more raps down the Kain route brings us to the crazy 1500 feet of down climbing 4th class rock. Back to the Col, glacier, moraine ridge, Kain hut, DINNER, ZZZZZzzzzzz.

Standing outside the Kain hut Watching the sun rise.
One of those beautiful July mornings, 3:30 am when the sun first starts to rise. Standing outside the hut seeing the most spectacular event. Then you step out of the outhouse from taking a pee. Wander back into the hut, put your boots on, gaiters, pack and start walking.

Kelly on the First Accent of Clean & Dirty / on Cresent Spire, Far left of Mecteck area.
Michel and I were sitting at the base of the NE Ridge of Bugaboo, when it started to rain, than snow, than hail. We decided that it probably not a good idea to continue. The verglass was starting to form on the rock. We decided to go climb something on Crescent spire.

Standing in front of the face of Crescent spire, we could see this marvelous crack going up this wild clean face. We managed to find an access to the ledge below the route. Up we went. We found ourselves standing on the top of the wall climbing a five-pitch climb, rating 5.10b.

The upper wall is covered in liked and the cracks would have to clean in a big way to become an ultime classic. But who wants to scrub for a week.
 
   
 

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